The Many Names of a Humble Dish: Discovering the Richness of Rundown

Have you ever wondered how a dish as simple as a stew could boast a plethora of names? Let’s dive into the culinary journey of Rundown—an earthy Jamaican stew brimming with fish, vegetables, and the unmistakable richness of coconut milk, simmered until what remains is a concoction so rich, it defies its humble beginnings.

Interestingly, “rundown” suggests a process of cooking until much of the liquid has evaporated, leaving behind a thick, rich mixture. But if you were to think of “rundown” in its adjective form, you might imagine something worn out or dilapidated. Quite the opposite, this dish is a celebration of abundance, a testament to the transformation of simple ingredients into something spectacularly better.

The Tale of Rundown: A Dish with Many Aliases

According to Riaz Phillips, a British writer and culinary connoisseur, in his cookbook “West Winds: Recipes, History and Tales from Jamaica,” Rundown goes by more names than any other dish he’s encountered. From “dip-dip” and “duck-and-shake-back” to the playful “swimmer-down,” these aliases aren’t just whimsical—they’re a nod to the culinary creativity and the art of everyday cooking. Each name offers a glimpse into the dish’s rich cultural backdrop and the communal experience of enjoying it with traditional sides like boiled dumplings and green bananas.

But why so many names? Perhaps it’s a way to celebrate the simple act of cooking, blurring the lines between the cook and the poet, each name a verse in the ongoing poem of Jamaican cuisine.

The Roots of Rundown: A Culinary Legacy

Exploring the origins of Rundown takes us back to the 18th century, to the resilient spirit of Jamaica’s enslaved population. As recounted by Melissa Thompson in her 2022 cookbook “Motherland,” these individuals made do with rations of salt fish, transforming them into pepper pots—spiced stews that have endured as symbols of resistance and ingenuity. Just like American barbecue or French classics like coq au vin, Rundown is a celebration of transforming simple or tough ingredients into something extraordinary.

In Thompson’s rendition of the recipe, smoked mackerel replaces the traditional salted mackerel, a tweak that speaks volumes about adaptation and memory, reflecting the journey of her grandparents and the broader Windrush generation to Britain.

Rundown Today: A Hidden Gem in British Dining

Despite its rich flavor and cultural significance, Jamaican food, as Thompson observes, still hovers on the edges of the British dining scene. Yet, there’s a certain pride in the secrecy, in knowing that these culinary spaces remain unspoiled, a slice of home for those who know where to look. But the spirit of Jamaican cooking is one of sharing, and through dishes like Rundown, there’s a hope to invite more people to discover the depth and richness of Jamaican cuisine.

Recipe Spotlight: Smoked Mackerel Rundown

Diving into the recipe itself, Thompson emphasizes the importance of not rushing—the fish is added only after the yams have softened, ensuring that every spoonful of the coconut milk-infused stew is a perfect blend of flavors and textures. It’s not just a dish; it’s a journey through history, culture, and the art of cooking.